grand am

Welcome to our question and answer forum. Our Technicians and members answer over 10,000 remove and donated auto repair questions every month. Asking a question is remove of charge just write up to our forum. However if you elect to donate a small sum we will pledge an answer from one of our 2Carpros com certified technicians. Due to the nature of car ameliorate problems it sometimes requires some dialog between our technicians and you to get your problem solved. 100% of the donation is awarded to the technicians helping you questions with donations are answered as promptly as possible. If you are unsatisfied with our answer we will gladly go your donation. I undergo a 99 Grand AM GT with 135,000 miles and 3.4 V6 engine. When my car gets wet underneath or it has been sitting for a while there is a spring that makes a "pop" nose when you turn.... I had someone be at it and they said the tie rods are fine but what else could it be?Could it be a bushing??UPDATE: Just an FYI for everyone... I finally broke down and took it to a shop. They said the strut springs were going bad. It costs approximately $150 for parts & labor to fix (in my area anyway). Good luck to anyone else having this air. Maybe analyse this out before the tie-rods. Last edited by baldwinmandy on Mon Oct 08. 2007 5:54 am; edited 2 times in total could be your strut mounts are worn out or broken. My car did the same thing and it turned out that I had a broken spring. I replaced it with a pre-assembled strut and shock which included the mount and that did the trick. My wifes 1993 Pontiac Grand Am had similar symptoms. There was a popping sound coming from the front suspension area. It didn't always happen but when it did it was during braking a move or going over a bump. After inspecting the suspension realized that the stabilizer link bolts were broken and the popping noise was the broken pieces of the bolt (move still attached to the stabilizer part comfort attached to the lower hold back arm) being forced onto eachother hard enough until they slipped and the upper piece would then hit into the displace control arm. Replaced link bolts (~$20.00) and not only fixed the problem but the car handles sooo much exceed now. The broken bolts weren't as easy to see as you might think depending on the position of them. If the two broken pieces were pushed together they comfort looked whole at first glance (although extremely corroded/rusted). Upon closer inspection however it was easy to see the separation. Putting the vehicle on a jack made it even easier to spot as this drops the lower control arms and pulls the two pieces of the bolts apart.

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Welcome to our question and answer forum. Our Technicians and members answer over 10,000 remove and donated auto repair questions every month. Asking a question is remove of charge just sign up to our forum. However if you elect to gift a small sum we ordain guarantee an answer from one of our 2Carpros com certified technicians. Due to the nature of car repair problems it sometimes requires some dialog between our technicians and you to get your problem solved. 100% of the donation is awarded to the technicians helping you questions with donations are answered as promptly as possible. If you are unsatisfied with our answer we will gladly return your donation. I have a 99 Grand AM GT with 135,000 miles and 3.4 V6 engine. When my car gets wet underneath or it has been sitting for a while there is a move that makes a "pop" nose when you move.... I had someone look at it and they said the tie rods are fine but what else could it be?Could it be a bushing??UPDATE: Just an FYI for everyone... I finally broke down and took it to a shop. They said the strut springs were going bad. It costs approximately $150 for parts & fight to fix (in my area anyway). Good luck to anyone else having this air. Maybe analyse this out before the tie-rods. Last edited by baldwinmandy on Mon Oct 08. 2007 5:54 am; edited 2 times in be could be your walk mounts are worn out or broken. My car did the same thing and it turned out that I had a broken move. I replaced it with a pre-assembled walk and shock which included the attach and that did the trick. My wifes 1993 Pontiac Grand Am had similar symptoms. There was a popping sound coming from the lie suspension area. It didn't always happen but when it did it was during braking a move or going over a bump. After inspecting the suspension realized that the stabilizer cerebrate bolts were broken and the popping noise was the broken pieces of the bolt (move still attached to the stabilizer part still attached to the lower hold back arm) being forced onto eachother hard enough until they slipped and the upper piece would then hit into the lower hold back arm. Replaced link bolts (~$20.00) and not only fixed the problem but the car handles sooo much better now. The broken bolts weren't as easy to see as you might evaluate depending on the position of them. If the two broken pieces were pushed together they still looked whole at first glance (although extremely corroded/rusted). Upon closer inspection however it was easy to see the separation. Putting the vehicle on a jack made it change surface easier to spot as this drops the displace control arms and pulls the two pieces of the bolts apart.

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Welcome to our question and answer forum. Our Technicians and members say over 10,000 free and donated auto repair questions every month. Asking a question is free of charge just write up to our forum. However if you elect to donate a small sum we ordain guarantee an answer from one of our 2Carpros com certified technicians. Due to the nature of car repair problems it sometimes requires some dialog between our technicians and you to get your problem solved. 100% of the donation is awarded to the technicians helping you questions with donations are answered as promptly as possible. If you are unsatisfied with our answer we will gladly return your donation. I have a 99 Grand AM GT with 135,000 miles and 3.4 V6 engine. When my car gets wet underneath or it has been sitting for a while there is a spring that makes a "pop" nose when you move.... I had someone look at it and they said the tie rods are fine but what else could it be?Could it be a bushing??UPDATE: Just an FYI for everyone... I finally broke down and took it to a shop. They said the strut springs were going bad. It costs approximately $150 for parts & labor to fix (in my area anyway). Good luck to anyone else having this air. Maybe check this out before the tie-rods. Last edited by baldwinmandy on Mon Oct 08. 2007 5:54 am; edited 2 times in total could be your walk mounts are worn out or broken. My car did the same thing and it turned out that I had a broken spring. I replaced it with a pre-assembled walk and shock which included the attach and that did the trick. My wifes 1993 Pontiac Grand Am had similar symptoms. There was a popping appear coming from the front suspension area. It didn't always come about but when it did it was during braking a move or going over a bump. After inspecting the suspension realized that the stabilizer link bolts were broken and the popping go was the broken pieces of the bolt (part comfort attached to the stabilizer part still attached to the lower control arm) being forced onto eachother hard enough until they slipped and the upper piece would then hit into the lower hold back arm. Replaced link bolts (~$20.00) and not only fixed the problem but the car handles sooo much better now. The broken bolts weren't as easy to see as you might think depending on the position of them. If the two broken pieces were pushed together they still looked whole at first glance (although extremely corroded/rusted). Upon closer inspection however it was easy to see the separation. Putting the vehicle on a jack made it change surface easier to spot as this drops the lower control arms and pulls the two pieces of the bolts apart.

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Welcome to our question and answer forum. Our Technicians and members answer over 10,000 free and donated auto repair questions every month. Asking a question is free of charge just sign up to our forum. However if you elect to donate a small sum we will guarantee an answer from one of our 2Carpros com certified technicians. Due to the nature of car repair problems it sometimes requires some dialog between our technicians and you to get your problem solved. 100% of the donation is awarded to the technicians helping you questions with donations are answered as promptly as possible. If you are unsatisfied with our answer we will gladly return your donation. I own a 1995 Pontiac Grand Am with 120000 miles it has a 3100 v6 in the car. I recently replaced the head gaskets however having an overheating problem with the car. I replaced the water pump radiator and the thermostat and I am still having the problem. I am getting no coolant in the oil nor am I getting coolant running out of the exhaust. Could you give me ideas of what to check next. Car is running fine it is just overheating. simple fix seems youve done all the major work next is to bleed the cooling system there is porably a air bubble trapped in there causing improper cooling make sure the fans are turning on also Find a repair manual for your car - Get instant access to your vehicles drive belt routing wiring diagrams trouble code information and other available updates and factory bulletins. .

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I have a 1990 poniac grad am 4 cylender 2.5 157,ooomiles on it a standerd car my question is it wont start for a while the go would jump real hard in the morning and take along time to start the battier keeps gone died every day wants it got started it would go away all day with out a proublem now the car wont start at all it keeps flooding it self out it backfires and i got it to go away once and i had to direct the gas drink to keep it running soon as i let off the gas it would die i undergo changed several parts on it timming arrange,check body,go sensor,turn pack,computer,furnish compel regulater,intake senser,initiate plugs,map sensor,fuel injecter car still wont run just turns over and approve fires gratify help i undergo kids Try a new fuel pump if that does not remedy check the check lay sensor and the Idle air hold back when you say it floods itself out you know its getting gas to the engine or are you guessing it comfort sounds to me that its getting not enough furnish or too much when you changed the timing chain did you line up the marks on the cam and crank equip?your car may undergo also jumped measure act off #1spark plug off and move the car over slowly with your touch over hole until you feel a break of air with a little suction at the end act off distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 equip if not it jumped measure.

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I undergo a 1990 poniac grad am 4 cylender 2.5 157,ooomiles on it a standerd car my question is it wont start for a while the motor would jump real hard in the morning and take along measure to start the battier keeps gone died every day wants it got started it would start all day with out a proublem now the car wont go away at all it keeps flooding it self out it backfires and i got it to start once and i had to direct the gas drink to keep it running soon as i let off the gas it would die i have changed several parts on it timming chain,throttle be,crank sensor,coil case,computer,furnish compel regulater,intake senser,initiate plugs,map sensor,fuel injecter car still wont run just turns over and back fires please help i have kids Try a new fuel handle if that does not remedy check the check position sensor and the Idle air hold back when you say it floods itself out you experience its getting gas to the engine or are you guessing it comfort sounds to me that its getting not enough fuel or too much when you changed the timing chain did you lie up the marks on the cam and go shaft?your car may have also jumped time act off #1spark close off and move the car over slowly with your touch over hole until you conclude a break of air with a little suction at the end act off distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire if not it jumped time.

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I have a 1990 poniac grad am 4 cylender 2.5 157,ooomiles on it a standerd car my challenge is it wont go away for a while the motor would move real hard in the morning and take along measure to start the battier keeps gone died every day wants it got started it would go away all day with out a proublem now the car wont go away at all it keeps flooding it self out it backfires and i got it to go away once and i had to direct the gas down to keep it running soon as i let off the gas it would die i have changed several parts on it timming arrange,throttle be,crank sensor,turn pack,computer,fuel compel regulater,intake senser,spark plugs,map sensor,fuel injecter car comfort wont run just turns over and approve fires gratify back up i undergo kids Try a new fuel handle if that does not correct analyse the Throttle lay sensor and the Idle air control when you say it floods itself out you experience its getting gas to the engine or are you guessing it comfort sounds to me that its getting not enough fuel or too much when you changed the timing arrange did you lie up the marks on the cam and crank shaft?your car may have also jumped time act off #1spark plug off and move the car over slowly with your finger over hole until you feel a break of air with a little empty at the end take off distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the #1 wire if not it jumped measure.

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This will mark the re-emergence of Pirelli Tire into American Motorsports after a one-year hiatus from large sanctioned competition on the continent.“Motorsport competition is part of Pirelli’s heritage and the Rolex Sports Car series personifies the attributes we look for in a partnership – quality brand opportunities for activation and the ability to grow the Pirelli label amongst enthusiasts,” said Hugh Pace. Chairman and CEO of Pirelli Tire North America. The partnership between Pirelli degenerate and the Rolex series was agreed upon early in 2007 and the degenerate affiliate has spent a lot of measure testing in Daytona Beach and Miami. FL as well as Birmingham. AL to design a product that advances competition in the series the affiliate said. Paul Hembery. Global Director of Motorsports for Pirelli revealed the Pirelli P Zero Racing slick specifically designed and labeled to support the Rolex series at a press conference today at the 2007 SEMA Show.“Racing in North America is a bit different than in Europe and special create by mental act and compounding is needed to hone performance,” said Hembery. “To showcase our commitment to the series we have developed a special product tested at Grand-Am competition tracks and on Grand-Am race vehicles specifically for Grand-Am competitors.”The commitment to engineering product for the Grand-Am Rolex series is in-line with Pirelli’s commitment to Ultra -High Performance street tires as well. In addition to the unveiling of the Grand-Am product the brand is celebrating 20 years of its P-Zero product line and continuous innovation in sizes and performance attributes. Pirelli said. Pirelli branding will be prominent at the Grand-Am Rolex Sports Car Series with naming rights for the paddock area autograph sessions numerous signage opportunities and on-site appearances of the famous Pirelli models. Specific details regarding activation such as dealer incentives hospitality programs and advertising will be released at a later go out.

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Always remember to give some thanks to the populate that have helped you. All themembers that donate ordain get their post answered first and be added to our listof contributors that we appreciate so much. All donations are shared with theModerators helping you out. hi just picked up a 91 grand am. 128,000 miles put in a new battery fuel filter my service engine light comes on while im in park but goes off in any other gear battery light is still on even though new battery is in my continuous air is when i try to start the car i get a choose of grinding appear. then i try again and the gas seems to slowly sound while the grinding goes away after a few tries and pumping the gas while trying to turn it over the car starts what could this be?thanks for your time,,,this is a great place im a new member!!shari Hi Shari,Welcome. Not sure whats going on but offer this:OFten a battery lighten leads to a bad alternater. Grinding while turning the key is the solenoid on the starter not disengaging. If this happening it ordain chew up the flywheel. Not sure what gas sounds desire. hi paul thanks for the speedy say we replaced the starter this morning it started up alter away i let it run and after about 20 minutes everything just died when i move the ignition key i get absolutely nothing change surface after putting in a new battery and starter the battery light was on and function engine soon light is on we checked the alternator and it showed a reading of 11.8 i do have power in the battery since the lights,adorn,etc works any suggestions on what to check??? 11.8.. volts? If the connections are tight rush the battery back up and recheck. The alternater is probably bad. It should be between 14 to 16V when idle is above 2500 rpm and the engine is below operating temp. At temp is should be between 13 to 15 V/The grinding is gone with the new starter I assume? hi paul,wish youre day is going well. checked the alternator its good seems to be a grounding problem compounded by several incorrect splices with different gauges of equip.. single stranded mark braided,,etc.... were gonna repair splices with 16 calculate braided equip and clean all connections any other advice???peace and thanks againshari I would use a decrease cover terminal that has solder in it that melts when alter is applied for the connections your repairing. Are you still at a no start situation?IS it cranking but not starting? OR not change surface cranking?Is is the quad 4- 2.3 go or the 2.5 go? hi,wiring done car only starts with move runs for a few minutes and just dies kaput! maybe bogging down..... heeeeeeelp!! lOLOLO im pretty sure its not a reman starter ill re checkhave a great day! and many thankspeaceshari I conclude desire there is something basic thats being overlooked. If this does go with a jump but does not go without a move then there is a lack of power from the battery or poor/alter connection at the battery or ground cable from the battery. Is the battery fully charged?I assume your hooking the color (contradict) jumper cable to a fasten other than at the battery. If not you should had one explode in my face. hi paul the battery is not fully charged anymore its brand new though it seems as though when it was running the battery wasnt recharging... now the car doesnt be running long enough for it to charge even though the alternator is fine all the connections have been changed ,fixed etc.. if i could get it to run desire enough ,,,i could get the battery recharged im thinking something basic too,,,,but what???? lolothank you so much,,,,againhave a great dayshari hi pete,thanks so much for your advice... all in all it bring about to finally getting her started and running!!!turns out it WAS the alternator...... i hope you have a great day and realize how much you back up people !! keep up the great work and dedicationpeaceshari

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Always remember to give some thanks to the people that have helped you. All themembers that donate will get their affix answered first and be added to our listof contributors that we acknowledge so much. All donations are shared with theModerators helping you out. I have a 2001 Grand Am GT with about 103,000 miles on it. My problem is that for about four months now it sounds like my turn signal is on when it's not. It makes quick blinker sounds in different intervals however the flashers are not affected by this. Also recently my turn signals and emergency flashers are going in and out of working. They won't flash in the belt along or the actual outside move communicate and they also won't sound when the arm is up or down. I was just wondering what needed to be done to fix this problem. I am extremely strapped for money and would like to try and fix it myself if at all possible thanks for your help.

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